Roman Ruins, River Cruise, Van Gogh, French Culture, South of France, Provence, Arles, Nimes, Vivier, Vienne, Avignon, Lyon, Wine, Chocolate, and Lovely Weather
by Carol Dammel April 15, 2024
Where - Rhone River, France
What - Rhone River Cruise in Provence France, Colors of Provence Itinerary with AMA Waterways
Itinerary - Arles (day 1,2) - Avignon (day 2,3) - Viviers (day 4) - Tournon (day 4,5) - Vienne (day 5,6) - Lyon (day 6,7,8)
When - June 2023
Why - Fabulous way to visit parts of Southern France
Who - People interested in river cruising for the first time. Return cruisers interested in the Rhone River.
Van Gogh’s Starry Night is back in Arles, revealing more of its mysteries and a Rhone River cruise is a great way to visit and explore the area. Reach out to us at www.magicplanned.com for help with your river cruise plans.
River cruising stands apart from its oceanic counterpart in numerous ways. While both offer unique experiences, European river cruises provide a distinctive journey, emphasizing intimate exploration through charming landscapes and historic locales. The increasing variety of European river cruise options offers travelers a chance to delve into a different kind of cruising experience—one that's distinct from traditional ocean voyages.
Cruising via river offers a unique perspective on travel, allowing for intimate exploration of inland waterways and access to charming towns and cities unreachable by ocean liners. The size and long, narrow design of river boats are tailored to navigate the specific challenges of rivers, including shallower waters, winding turns, narrow passages, and low bridges. It's a delightful way to experience the heart of a region, immersing oneself in its culture, history, and landscapes along the way.
River cruises are a perfect fit for those who prefer a more intimate and personalized travel experience. With a smaller number of passengers and attentive crew, it creates an environment where you can truly relax and enjoy your journey. The focus on destinations and the availability of local guides for smaller group experiences add to the authenticity of the adventure. Plus, the flexibility to explore independently ensures that you can tailor your experience to your preferences. River cruising is an excellent option for travelers who seek both organization and freedom in their travel adventures.
River cruises are a wonderful option for those prone to motion sickness. With the smooth steady flow of the river and the proximity to the shore, the experience is essentially motionless. Plus, the convenience of docking right in the heart of destinations makes exploration effortless. Enjoy the scenery while sailing - always within a few feet of the shore. When you dock, walk right off the boat and stroll right into the heart of your ports-of-call. It's a great way to enjoy scenic views and explore new places without worrying about feeling queasy. Depending on the river you may be tied up to other ships. However on this Rhone river cruise we never had to walk through other ships to get to shore.
River cruises offer a fantastic value proposition when you weigh the cost against the inclusions and the quality of service you receive. The initial price may seem a bit high to some, but when you factor in all that's encompassed—meals, beverages, attentive service, and enriching experiences—it paints a picture of great value. Plus, the convenience of having everything arranged for you makes for a truly relaxing journey. It's like stepping into a world of relaxed luxury where your only concern is deciding which scenic view and lovely meal to enjoy next.
Recently, my husband and I embarked on a serene journey along the Rhône River, courtesy of AMAWaterways aboard the AMA Kristina. Drawn to the allure of Southern France, with its captivating blend of ancient history and modern charm, we eagerly opted for the "Colors of Provence" cruise. While I may have been the instigator of our adventure, my husband was more than happy to indulge in a week of relaxation and exploration, sans the usual crazy itinerary planning on my part. Frankly I was happy to get a break from itinerary planning.
Once on board, we surrendered to the luxury of unpacking just once and allowing AMA to pamper us throughout our journey. It was a refreshing change of pace to simply immerse ourselves in the sights and sounds of France without the need for elaborate itineraries. As we cruised along the tranquil waters, each stop along the way presented us with new delights to savor and cherish.
From the picturesque towns dotting the riverbanks to the enriching excursions offered by AMA, every moment was infused with a sense of wonder and discovery. Our cruise became a seamless blend of relaxation and exploration, allowing us to fully immerse ourselves in the beauty and culture of Provence and beyond. It was a journey filled with unforgettable memories and moments of pure bliss.
We were originally planning a trip through Andalusian Spain when we shifted course and opted to fit a river cruise into our European summer. So we travelled by train from Barcelona, Spain to Arles, France where our river cruise would begin. Taxi and Uber drivers were striking the morning of our departure so we gathered our bags and began the day with a short walk to the Barcelona Metro and then a metro ride to Barcelona, Sants train station where we would catch our train to Nîmes, France via Montpellier.
Our train from Sants had an air conditioning problem (boo) and a very large tour group, from another US state (who shall remain nameless), with a LOT of luggage and so the trip was a bit tiring. One couple even had 2 humongous 4 body bags. What!?
When traveling I have this weird quirk of looking at luggage in terms of how many bodies one could fit inside (keeps me entertained) and let me tell you, 4 bodies is a lot. I've never even seen suitcases that big and they had two in addition to other smaller bags. Full disclosure, I enjoy murder mysteries. Remember when traveling by train you typically bring your own luggage on board with you and there is limited space. You need to be able to get it up stairs etc. on your own, and shouldn't have so much that you are encroaching on other passengers space. We helped the poor man get his luggage up the stairs and took our seats. Train left on time. Which is not unusual. Fortunately the train journey didn't take long.
We departed our train in Nîmes, France (or Nemausus to the Romans) and left our bags at a baggage drop just across the street from the train station. Just a quick and easy stroll out of the train station will find you enjoying many finely preserved Roman ruins.
Nîmes, the city
Nîmes was born of water, water and water. The city was founded during pre-Roman times on the banks of the Fontaine Spring, the site of the cult of the eponymous god Nemausos. When Nîmes became a colony, it's population grew from a few thousand to approximately 20,000 between the first centuries B.C. and A.D. The 6 km-long city ramparts, a gift of Augustus in 16-15 B.C., protected nearly 220 hectares of land. The city of Nimes was organized around two monuments: the Fontaine sanctuary, Augusteum, built in honor of the cult emperor, and the Forum, south of which the Square House was built (1-5 A.D.). At the summit of Mount Cavalier, the prestigious Magne Tower dominates the Languedoc Plain. It marks the sanctuary of the Imperial cult to travelers. Several functional constructions followed that of the monuments: the aqueduct (40-60 A.D.) and the 23,000-seat amphitheater (towards 90 A.D.) which established the conditions for the renewal of urban life.
After our Roman sightseeing walk we enjoyed a cold drink in a Nîmes cafe (we had purchased a mediocre meal on the train) before arranging our transportation to Arles. We "Uber'd" to Arles from Nîmes as we didn’t wish to wait, the two hours, for the next train. The 30-40 minute country drive from Nime to Arles was pleasant in the back of a Tesla.
After our Uber driver left us in Arles we checked in to our hotel, the very well situated and graciously managed La Maison Volver near the old Porte de la Calverie and within easy walking distance of the dock that our river cruise would depart from (it was also within easy walking distance from the Arles train station had we taken the train as originally planned).
I always spend extra time exploring towns, cities and regions pre and post cruise. You’ve traveled far to get there so I always try to make the most of it. Being a travel planner I usually book a variety of accommodations so that I can better serve our traveling clients. La Maison Volver was very well situated for our needs, had lovely hosts and a really nice restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and dinner - a huge bonus, in my book. Hotels like this are my personal travel favorites. Locally owned, well located, gracious, friendly, homey, not fussy, clean and comfortable (and our room was air conditioned). Our room also had a newly renovated bathroom. After arriving and taking a bit of rest we headed out to explore Arles in the evening.
Arles often seems to pass under the radar of many peoples European travel itineraries - perhaps due to its somewhat out of the way location? Regardless, it is a fabulous city and an area worthy of a lengthy visit. History, Art, Nature and Southern France. What more do you want.
Arles, France
The year was 1888; the setting, the south of France. A thirty something painter dipped his paintbrush into a rich palette of colors, reimagining the scenery along the Rhone and out to the Mediterranean Sea. His name was Vincent Van Gogh and it was during a two-year stay in Arles that he created such masterpieces as, The Starry Night and Cafe Terrace at Night before suffering his infamous mental breakdown. Centuries earlier, Arles was annexed by Julias Caesar and became a major center of trade. It’s 20,000 seat amphitheater once used for gladiator competitions, still stands among a plethora of Roman ruins that comprise an enthralling UNESCO world heritage Site, Medieval Arles is also represented through the cities Church of St. Trophime, which sits across from the regal 17th century town hall. A majority of Arles is surrounded by UNESCO designated wetlands known as the Parc Natural de Camargue, where wildlife such as white horses, black bulls and flamingos are protected and revered.
Imagine strolling through the quiet winding alleys of Arles' old town as dusk settles, without the aid of a map, the cobblestones beneath your feet whispering tales of centuries past. Suddenly, emerging from a hidden passage, you're greeted by the grandeur of an ancient Roman amphitheater. It's a moment of serendipity, unexpected yet utterly captivating—a reminder of the rich tapestry of history woven into the fabric of this charming town.
Built in 90 AD the amphitheater held over 20,000 spectators of chariot races and bloody hand-to-hand battles. Today the remarkably well preserved structure still hosts bull fights and games as well as plays and concerts in the summer. What a stunning beauty!
Tomorrow we would be boarding the AMA Kristina for our cruise itinerary, including tours of Arles and the surrounding area. We relaxed knowing that we would be exploring Arles and the surrounding area with the help of AMA during the next couple of days.
The next day we boarded the AMA Kristina for our Colors of Provence Itinerary around noon. We sat down in the lounge (where all the entertainment, sip and sails, enrichment activities etc. occur) and chose to enjoy a light bistro lunch offering rather than the full lunch and relaxed onboard our first day. The ship would still be in Arles tomorrow and would be providing tours of the city and surrounding area. One of many things I enjoyed about this itinerary was that the embarkation and disembarkation ports also included tours which is perfect for people who haven't built in extra time to explore those locations on their own or purchased pre and post cruise excursions. Later that day we enjoyed our safety briefing, Sip & Sail (happy hour), dinner and entertainment. We also took advantage of AMA's convenient and affordable laundry service.
The next day while the AMA Kristina was docked in Arles we enjoyed 2 different included tours. In the morning I disembarked at 9:30 for a walking tour of Arles. For walking tours you can choose slow, regular, and fast paced. Among my tour highlights were visits to the Arles amphitheater and various sites depicted in Vincent Van Gogh's paintings. Many of his most famous paintings were done in Arles or nearby. It was a pleasant and informative tour. Towards the end of the tour I tipped our guide, explored a bit more on my own, and made my own way back to the ship.
The vantage point Van Gogh used for Starry Night Over The Rhône allowed him to capture the reflections of the gas lighting in Arles across the glimmering blue water of the Rhone. My photo showing the same vantage point for this painting demonstrating how little things have changed in nearly 140 years.
“…the starry sky at last, actually painted at night, under a gas-lamp. The sky is green-blue, the water is royal blue, the areas of land are mauve. The town is blue and violet. The gaslight is yellow, and its reflections are red gold and go right down to green bronze. Against the green-blue field of the sky the Great Bear has a green and pink sparkle whose discreet paleness contrasts with the harsh gold of the gaslight. Two small coloured figures of lovers in the foreground.” Letter from Van Gogh to his brother Theo
The circumstances surrounding Van Gogh's ear-cutting incident remain a subject of disagreement, though it's widely speculated to have occurred during a heated altercation with Paul Gauguin at the Yellow House, where they briefly resided together. Legend has it that Van Gogh then entrusted his severed ear to a local prostitute before seeking medical attention at an Arles hospital, a scene immortalized in one of his paintings during his stay there. While the Yellow House met its demise during WWII bombings, the building behind it is still standing as are the train track arches over the road (right hand side in the distance).
After a delightful lunch onboard the ship I left for an afternoon coach tour to Les Baux by way of some olive oil tasting and past the sanatorium in Remes where Van Gogh eventually committed himself. Following this pleasant and fascinating afternoon we returned to the ship for a rest and our ships departure from Arles. The ship departed late in the afternoon in order to arrive at our next destination, Avignon before dark. We enjoyed a festive happy hour and a delicious dinner while sailing. It was time to relax and ponder the days events.
Arriving in Avignon by river, before dark, was truly stunning and exciting. The Kristina's captains also made sure to do a bit of fancy ship maneuvering before docking so that we could really take in the evening view of Avignon from the river. We were able to walk off the ship which docked immediately adjacent to the old city wall that evening for a lovely evening stroll on our own. The following morning we explored Avignon, including the papal palace, on our own, rather than partaking in one of the offered tours. After lunch back on the ship I headed out for a coach tour through the countryside to visit the amazing Pont du Gard.
The Pont du Gard is a Roman aqueduct bridge built in the first century C.E. It is EXCEPTIONALLY large and beautiful. The Pont du Gard at nearly 50 meters tall it is the highest Roman aqueduct bridge in the world. It is made up of three tiers of arches one above the other, which was a rare achievement for the time. It is remarkably well preserved and is the only example of a 3 tiered Roman bridge still standing today. During the reigns of Claudius and Nero, the aqueduct of which the Pont du Gard is part supplied the city of Nimes (or Nemausus to the Romans) with large quantities of pressurized water for over five centuries. For you trivia lovers the Pont du Gard is pictured on the five Euro note.
Back to the ship for drinks, dinner and departure. I was pretty tired as it was a bit hot while visiting the Pont du Gard (and I didn't bring a swim suit, drat) and so I was happy to get to bed early. After sailing through the night we arrived to a very quiet, peaceful and idyllic Viviers in the morning. Today we chose to explore on our own. We hopped on AMA-provided bikes and peddled along the Rhône and into the very charming, medieval village of Viviers. We both agreed we’d love to come back and spend some time exploring this area more while using Viviers as a home base. It was so charming and beautiful. We departed in the early afternoon for Tournons.
Arriving in Tournon for a half day we took a short walk to the castle of Tournon for an excellent exclusive wine and chocolate pairing excursion. Here we also enjoyed commanding views over the Rhone from the castle. We then wandered about on our own, including a pleasant stroll across the pedestrian bridge, Passerelle Marc-Seguin from Tournon to Tain-l’Hermitage on the left bank. This bridge was built in 1825 and is the oldest suspension bridge in France.
Leaving Tournon we sailed on to Vienne where we enjoyed one of our included walking tours of this ancient city which was a major center of the Roman Empire. Remains of Roman construction are widespread across modern Vienne including a Roman temple, circus pyramid and theatre where their famous annual Jazz festival is held. Evidence of the Roman Empire are everywhere. We took a little caterpillar trolly car up to the Belvedere de Pipet that has a marvelous view of the Roman theatre and city of Vienne. We also visited the Vienne Cathedral, erected from 1130 onwards. We remained docked in Vienne overnight and would sail for Lyon the following day.
We arrived in Lyon in the late afternoon and enjoyed some sightseeing on our own. There are many who think Lyon is "better" than Paris. That's silly. Both cities are fabulous and you can enjoy a lot of time exploring them. Like Paris, Lyon is a bustling, busy and zippy city in contrast to the more laid back pace in the South of France enjoyed earlier in the cruise. Many feel the food scene in Lyon is superior. You can eat very well in both cities. Spend time in them both as they have much to offer.
The following day we enjoyed the city tour of Lyon. We boarded a coach for a drive through Lyon to the spectacular Fourviere Basilica. The Basilica of Notre Dame de Fourviere was built with private funds between 1872 and 1884, and is a major symbol of Lyon due to its commanding position overlooking Lyon, among other reasons. It was built to thank the Virgin Mary for having spared the city from invasion during the Franco-Prussian war. You can see our tour guide in the picture and yes she is holding a paddle. Sometimes I've seen travel brands disparaging the paddle. Pay no heed. If you choose to enjoy a tour like this you will be provided with an earpiece (at the beginning of the cruise for your personal use - no need to bring anything) so that you can hear the guide even if you wander off (which I do a lot of). The paddle makes it easy to find them. After the Basilica we headed down Fourviere Hill to Old Town Lyon which lies at its base.
Old Town Lyon, nestled at the foot of Fourvière Hill along the Saône River, is a treasure trove of history and charm. Throughout the Medieval and Renaissance periods, it served as the vibrant heart of Lyon, pulsating with life amidst its winding cobblestone streets and colorful buildings. From bustling silk shops to cozy cafes and restaurants, the Old Town was a hub of activity, where merchants, artisans, and locals intermingled.
Yet, as time marched on, newer neighborhoods emerged, drawing residents away from the historic center. Neglect and decline set in, exacerbated by the unsanitary conditions that plagued many urban areas during the early 20th century. In the face of this decline, there were some who saw the Old Town as little more than a relic of the past, ripe for demolition in the name of progress.
Thankfully, the tide turned in the 1960s when the French Minister of Culture intervened to save this historic gem from destruction. Recognizing its significance as a testament to Lyon's rich cultural heritage, efforts were undertaken to breathe new life into the Old Town. Extensive refurbishments took place, preserving its architectural treasures and revitalizing its streets.
In 1998, the Old Town Lyon was rightfully recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, cementing its place as a cherished destination for visitors and locals alike. Today, wandering through its labyrinthine alleyways and hidden passages, known as "les Traboules," is like stepping back in time. Each corner reveals a new glimpse into Lyon's storied past, inviting exploration and discovery.
Whether savoring a meal at a centuries-old bouchon, or the iconic Lyonnaise sweet brioche aux praline, or admiring the intricate facades of historic buildings, the Old Town Lyon captivates with its authenticity and charm. It stands as a testament to the power of preservation and the enduring beauty of France's cultural legacy.
The Traboules were a particularly interesting part of our tour (for me at least). These secret covered passageways wind their way through buildings, courtyards and up and down stairs. They are all different. There number approximately 400 with around 40 open to the public. The publicly available traboules are clearly marked with a small identifying seal.
The origins of these passageways date back to the 4th century and they have been utilized over the centuries for various purposes such as quick access to water, carrying heavy silk loads and meetings. But my favorite bit of history, and a big reason these played a key role in the Old Towns Unesco designation, was their role during WWII. During the war the traboules were used by the French Resistance for secret meetings and covert passage of messages, helping to prevent the Nazis from successfully occupying the whole of Lyon. Anyway, I've just scratched the surface here. Get to Old Town Lyon and investigate yourself!
I think we walked back to the ship instead of taking the coach back. There was a lot to take in and I can't quite remember, but we definitely made it back to the ship, had lunch, put our feet up for a bit and then I headed out for an afternoon Beaujolais excursion and wine tasting with a lovely drive through the golden stone region followed by wine tasting at a small family owned winery (learn more about the Beaujolais region).
Our trip hit a snag when we got lost, but our bus driver showed remarkable skill navigating narrow country roads to get us back on track. Thankfully, the winery owner rescued us with their little white truck and showed us the way back to his winery. We enjoyed our wine cave tasting session, complete with snacks, and learned about biodynamic wine making in the region and the advantages of producing such wines. It was a longer than expected afternoon but the bus driver had a bag of chocolates for the drive home (back to the ship). My only sadness was missing out on visiting the village of Oingt (how to pronounce Oingt). Grumble. Anyway, once back on the welcoming ship we enjoyed a cool drink and dinner.
The next morning marked the bittersweet conclusion of our cruise. AMA had thoughtfully arranged a cab to our hotel for our extended stay in Lyon, where we planned to delve deeper into its treasures before venturing back to Barcelona for more escapades. The Museum of Fine Arts in Lyon left an indelible impression, especially its captivating collection of medieval art.
The departure process, from the AMA Kristina, was a well-oiled machine, seamlessly guiding travelers to various destinations, whether it was the airport, a post-cruise Paris excursion, or local accommodations like ours. It was a reassuring sigh of relief for both seasoned adventurers accustomed to making their own plans and novice travellers in need of a helping hand. Overall, the experience was a testament to the joy of travel when every detail is expertly taken care of.
Consider embarking on an AMA river cruise for a truly enriching travel experience! With all excursions, meals, and even wine and beer included in your upfront fare, you can indulge in exploration without worrying about extra costs. With multiple excursions daily, you can tailor your journey to suit your interests perfectly. Say goodbye to the hassle of lugging around multiple suitcases and hello to the joys of effortless exploration. River cruising offers a rewarding way to discover diverse destinations while enjoying the ultimate in comfort and convenience.
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